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Exercises Movements, technique & proper execution

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Old 04-24-2008, 06:52 AM   #21
Christian Mason
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Re: grip / forearm training for rock climbing

I've been climbing (pretty religiously) for several years. Other people have echoed this sentiment, but climb more.

It usually feels like you fall/fail because you lack the grip or forearm strength or endurance, but this is generally traceable to movement errors. I.e. while it is undeniable that high level climbers are stronger, they're also MUCH more efficient as using what they do have.

I think that you're probably focusing on the wrong thing. I'd you feel your finger strength is a limiting factor on easy and moderate routes (say 5.9/5.10 and under) you're probably not using your feet effectively/are overgripping, etc...

I'd HIGHLY recommend a book called "The Self Coached Climber" for an in depth look at movement training.

-- Chris
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Old 04-24-2008, 08:41 AM   #22
Stephen Georgiou
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Re: grip / forearm training for rock climbing

as a climber (bouldering), i can tell you that the FINGER strength required for climbing has different requirements than GRIP strength trained with something like farmers walk etc.

For any non-climers, do a normal bar chin up, and then do a chin up on a thin door frame ledge. You will feel that there is a very big difference in the specific hand muscles involved.

As others have said, the best way to train your finger strength is definitely to get yourself climbing!

Put your effort/time/energy into training your climbing, not training your grip (In the same way that a swimmer should spend their time training swimming kicking skills rather than training leg extensions). Your finger strength will develop together with your technical abilities. Specific training of finger strength is valid, but not for you now.
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:00 AM   #23
James Besenyei
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Re: grip / forearm training for rock climbing

Originally Posted by Scott Ponte View Post (safe) excellent grip site
I second the Ironmind recommendation. I'm no climber, but their grip equipment is top notch.
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