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Old 02-06-2007, 06:27 PM   #1
Greg Davis
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Location: Mississauga  Ontario
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Hey I am having problems working out my training routine lately and hope I can get some advice. I use to use a periodized training protocol that incorporated 90%+ 1RM work but lately I'm struggling to figure out how to work this into my routine.

Problem is I've been getting really into rock climbing and bouldering, and hit up a climbing session 1-2 times per week. So on top of that I might do some interval training and 1 weights session. But climbing involves a lot of high intensity moves so I'm totally puzzled as to how I can work some 90%+ powerlifting/1RM work. Basically for a weights workout (squats, deadlifts, pressing) I've been trying to do a 90%+ workout once per month since I only get 1 weights session per week. Any ideas for how I can fit this type of training in?

I think 90%+ 1RM work is really important to get stronger which is good for climbing and my other sports. But if I only manage to work with weights once a week, I can't train that hard ever time and I'm worried that hitting that threshold once per month won't be enough for my non-climbing movements ie. squat.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:03 AM   #2
Martin Schap
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Location: Lafayette  IN
Posts: 523
Try GTG with bodyweight moves that require a lot of strength. Not having access to weights doesn't have to mean you don't do strength work. Try working toward a one arm pull-up and push-up, pistols and maybe planches and levers. (Not necessarily all at once.)
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Old 02-09-2007, 01:19 PM   #3
Kevin Stricker
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Balancing Climbing with strength training can be tricky especially if you are focusing on Bouldering. I think you are best off getting a good climbing workout then doing heavy weights afterwards. Your lifting performance will be compromised but you will maximize recovery time. I think if you are bouldering and lifting weights that you should probably only go heavy no more than twice a week. The following schedules have worked for me, but not incorporating crossfit workouts.
Mon - Rest
Tues - Boulder - Strength
Weds - Endurance climbing
Thurs - Boulder - Strength
Fri - Rest
Sat - Climb
Sun - Climb

If you are really pushing high weights/hard problems I do better with the following.

Mon - Rest
Tues - CV
Wed - Bouldering / Strength
Thur - CV
Fri - Rest
Sat - Bouldering / Strength
Sun - Climbing

Also I would bet money that just climbing will make you a stronger climber than high intensity strength training. Once you start to plateau in your climbing, then back off for a few months and focus on strength. Repeat forever.
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Old 02-09-2007, 04:20 PM   #4
David Aguasca
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Location: Nyack  NY
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i totally agree with kevin...if you're just getting into climbing, your climbing will probably improve most if you just climb. it has such specific strength and endurance needs (focusing on grip strength) that the only way to train it is to do it. plus, movement and balance in the vertical world is pretty different than that in most any other sport. :msn-wink:

one thing i can tell you, though, is that any kind of gymnastics training really helps, even if it's not pull-oriented. i've taken month to three month breaks from climbing and done some gymnastics every week, and upon returning, i was surprised how little i had lost in terms of skill. my contact strength and endurance was pretty awful, but that returned as well.
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:07 PM   #5
Jay Cohen
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sharpsville  PA
Posts: 3,384

Agree with David /Kevin, but let me suggest you buy Eric Horst's Training for Climbing. Follow his training program as it address's your question. Then build a 30 and 50 degree wall, outfit it with the HIT Strip from Nicros. you are good to go. Here is a link to his site, it's very family safe and work safe:

BTW, he is a great guy, has provide much info on my home built wall and training ideas.

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