|03-19-2006, 08:39 PM||#3|
Was this debated because the guy was not using belays or guide ropes? Just curious because I did not know it was already posted. I have to admit, it is pretty crazy.:lol:
|03-20-2006, 01:43 PM||#4|
It's only stupid if you f--- up!
This time it wasn't.
When he tied into an old rope, jumped off a cliff, and cratered in, it was stupid.
I don't even have to look at the video, I know the one you're talking about.
|03-20-2006, 03:03 PM||#7|
Roughly what happened is this.
He was jumping from cliffs on ropes that were tied together, connected to an anchor. No big deal.
Apparently, he left his ropes and rigging at the top of a cliff at one point, still tied together, exposed to the elements, sun rain, bugs, whatever. He came back some time later.
Weeks, months,not too sure. Irrelevant.
Anyway, he tied back in to the same gear, obviously didn't check it, jumped, and, well, you can guess the rest.
So, for me, is soloing stupid? No.
What D.O. did though was the Mt. Everest of stupidity.
Motorcycling without a helmet, driving without a seatbelt, speeding, soloing. It's all the same to me.
|03-20-2006, 06:42 PM||#9|
The book Fall of the Phantom Lord was written about Dan well before he died and it was a fascinating book about his attempts to manage and/or master fear.
We're all entitled to our opinions about what level of risk is appropriate and what is stupid. For some people free soloing may not be stupid, for me it certainly would be. For Dan, having a daughter, free soloing at a certain level even may not have been stupid. With 20/20 hindsight it's easy to say that jumping from a 1,000' cliff at Yosemite was though.
|03-20-2006, 11:47 PM||#10|
This might be of interest. An equipment specialist from Black Diamond, a major manufacturer of rock climbing gear, examined the part of Dan Osman's ropes that failed. Here's what he found:
...I also know that Dano's rigging setup was reviewed by more than a couple
of technically competent people. I also know that he tested it multiple
times. I personally do not think that what Dan was doing (when done
properly as he had done on earlier jumps) was any more dangerous than
modern ice climbers doing hard thin ice routes (like in Maple Canyon and
elsewhere), in fact his setup was most likely safer in my personal
opinion. Dan's death was a tragedy and an accident.
Again, this summary is mine personally and not that of Black Diamond.
Everything I did was visual examination. I did not untie any knot or
tamper with the rope in any way other than prying the knots to see inside.
With some insight from Doug Heinrich I concluded that the failure of Dan's
rope was not due to tensile overload or from being tampered with. I
strongly believe that Dan did miscalculate on his last jump. For some
reason he moved his jump site. In doing so he crossed the ropes (either
on the retrieval line or on the main jump line). When he jumped the first
knot above the one he was tied in with slid down a section of rope several
lengths up. The sheath was heavily melted and removed in several sections
on this upper part of the rope. The knot that slid down the rope was
melted in multiple locations and was melted nearly completely through,
deep inside the knot. This knot was not tight, yet others in the system
were (this is the one open question that is unresolved as far as I know).
It is my conclusion that Dan's rope was cut by his own rope sliding
against itself. Use of a magnifying glass indicated to me that the cut
surface was due to sliding action in one direction. There was no evidence
of hot cutting with a knife or other type of instrument. I conducted
further experiments in my lab to see if tensile overload could have caused
this failure. The samples I tested were significantly different in that
they were heavily frayed and tattered. My analysis of Dan's ropes in
general was that they were in great condition. There was no evidence to
me of damage due to previous falls, uv exposure, or weather. I would have
climbed on these ropes without any hesitation had they not been from this
accident. I do not believe that the condition of the ropes had anything
at all to do with the failure of the ropes. Nor do I believe that Dan's
basic shock absorbing setup was incorrect. Crossing the ropes was the
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