Climbing rope

Scott Kustes · 08-09-2006, 01:05 PM

Well I talked the wife into allowing me to hang a climbing rope from one of our trees. Unfortunately, my 2' rafters in the garage are too narrow for me to snake my 180lbs of sexiness through. Getting the rope isn't going to be a problem...I'll order through one of the sites found on the search here or find a local supplier (I assume manila is the standard for price and usability, yes?). Anyway, my question is in regards to securing it to the tree branch....obviously I don't want to run a nail through the rope and putting any holes in the tree is probably bad for the tree too. Also, this is in the front yard as there are no trees in my back yard, so I need someway to either quick-release it (carabiner?) or a hook of some sort to get it off the ground....too much liability leaving a rope hanging from the tree with all the kids in this neighborhood. How much would it damage the tree to run a hook into it that I could wrap the rope around?

Any other ideas/suggestions?

Jonathan McMahan · 08-09-2006, 01:25 PM

go to your local climbing store or online and get some webbing thats 1 piece solid (not the walmart stuff.) it has a w.l.l. of 3-4k. you can also buy a good nfpa rated steel carabiner there for quick removal. also make a second 1 to a backup anchor point (another branch) so if the first 1 fails you dont get a flying lesson without the plane. put a scrap piece of carpet on the branch to keep the webbing from cutting into the branch and then put a piece of carpet over the webbing to protect it from uv rays. (uv rays break down webbing /ropes and premature deterioration is not something you want 20 feet off the ground).

Daniel Carney · 08-09-2006, 03:43 PM

The outdoor climbing ropes I've seen for sale are all made from synthetics. For example, http://www.jammarmfg.com/outdoorropes.html.
If you're going to leave it up, manila may not be the most durable choice.
I don't know how high you're planning to hang this rope, but I use a 8 ft. length of manila that's eye-spliced on one end. I hang it up inside and outside, on trees, playground jungle gyms, my pull-up bar, etc. using Jonathan's webbing/carabiner combo. Climbing several times from a seated position is almost as good as going up 20 feet once. And the cost of 9 ft. of rope is less than a full 20+ ft.
I realize this doesn't answer your question, but maybe contributes some ideas you haven't considered. Happy climbing.

Marc Kriss · 08-11-2006, 12:29 PM

daniel-

you mention you hang the rope everywhere. does this mean you just thread the bottom of the rope through the eye and fasten it like that? seems basic, but is it safe?

Daniel Carney · 08-11-2006, 08:54 PM

Marc,

I've threaded the eye and it's safe enough. The rope is pretty strong at 1.5" thick (16600 lb. breaking strength). I watch for the wear that will eventually require replacing it. But actually I prefer to use a length of 1" tubular webbing that's been knotted (using a water knot) and a carabiner. This makes set-up and take-down much easier. My greatest risk to falling is probably in my choice of objects to attach to.

Marc Kriss · 08-14-2006, 06:19 AM

Daniel-

thanks. so basically, the tubular webbing attaches directly to the structure (tree in my case), and the carabiner is between the climbing rope and the webbing? so does the webbing ever come off of the structure? seems like that would always stay, and the carabiner would allow you to remove the rope whenever needed.

sorry for the basic questions, but this is new to me, and really i have never seen anything to base it on. if you have pics please post. thanks-

Daniel Carney · 08-14-2006, 04:04 PM

Here's how I secure my rope and rings using the webbing and carabiner.
http://www.crossfit.com/discus/messages/26/28721.jpg

Rene Renteria · 08-14-2006, 04:36 PM

Re: pic above--You might want to put longer tails on your water knots and make sure the biner on the left can't slip up over the bar or under the rope and get cross-loaded.

Consider using a locking biner if the climbing rope will be hung pretty high.

Best,
Rene'

Paul Findley · 08-14-2006, 05:48 PM

That there is a single point of failure :-)

If it does not need to be portable, remove the biner and just tie 2 <redundant> loops of nylon webbing.

(Message edited by paul on August 14, 2006)

Scott Kustes · 08-15-2006, 06:12 AM

Great information all. Thanks! I'm going to have to give some thought to manila vs outdoor rope...I'm not sure leaving it up all the time is going to be good for my liability, but taking it down/putting it up is going to require acquisition of a taller ladder than I have. Hmmm....I think I'll get the webbing and a locking biner to wrap the tree, then I'll just have to put the rope on the biner and climb.

So "2nd point of failure" will be a second webbing from the same biner (to a different branch) or a 2nd biner and webbing?

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08-09-2006, 01:05 PM	#1
Scott Kustes Member Profile: Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 1,258	Well I talked the wife into allowing me to hang a climbing rope from one of our trees. Unfortunately, my 2' rafters in the garage are too narrow for me to snake my 180lbs of sexiness through. Getting the rope isn't going to be a problem...I'll order through one of the sites found on the search here or find a local supplier (I assume manila is the standard for price and usability, yes?). Anyway, my question is in regards to securing it to the tree branch....obviously I don't want to run a nail through the rope and putting any holes in the tree is probably bad for the tree too. Also, this is in the front yard as there are no trees in my back yard, so I need someway to either quick-release it (carabiner?) or a hook of some sort to get it off the ground....too much liability leaving a rope hanging from the tree with all the kids in this neighborhood. How much would it damage the tree to run a hook into it that I could wrap the rope around? Any other ideas/suggestions?

08-09-2006, 01:25 PM	#2
Jonathan McMahan Member Profile: Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: tucson arizona Posts: 24	go to your local climbing store or online and get some webbing thats 1 piece solid (not the walmart stuff.) it has a w.l.l. of 3-4k. you can also buy a good nfpa rated steel carabiner there for quick removal. also make a second 1 to a backup anchor point (another branch) so if the first 1 fails you dont get a flying lesson without the plane. put a scrap piece of carpet on the branch to keep the webbing from cutting into the branch and then put a piece of carpet over the webbing to protect it from uv rays. (uv rays break down webbing /ropes and premature deterioration is not something you want 20 feet off the ground).

08-09-2006, 03:43 PM	#3
Daniel Carney Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Missoula MT Posts: 37	The outdoor climbing ropes I've seen for sale are all made from synthetics. For example, http://www.jammarmfg.com/outdoorropes.html. If you're going to leave it up, manila may not be the most durable choice. I don't know how high you're planning to hang this rope, but I use a 8 ft. length of manila that's eye-spliced on one end. I hang it up inside and outside, on trees, playground jungle gyms, my pull-up bar, etc. using Jonathan's webbing/carabiner combo. Climbing several times from a seated position is almost as good as going up 20 feet once. And the cost of 9 ft. of rope is less than a full 20+ ft. I realize this doesn't answer your question, but maybe contributes some ideas you haven't considered. Happy climbing.

08-11-2006, 12:29 PM	#4
Marc Kriss Member Profile: Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern MD Posts: 45	daniel- you mention you hang the rope everywhere. does this mean you just thread the bottom of the rope through the eye and fasten it like that? seems basic, but is it safe?

08-11-2006, 08:54 PM	#5
Daniel Carney Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Missoula MT Posts: 37	Marc, I've threaded the eye and it's safe enough. The rope is pretty strong at 1.5" thick (16600 lb. breaking strength). I watch for the wear that will eventually require replacing it. But actually I prefer to use a length of 1" tubular webbing that's been knotted (using a water knot) and a carabiner. This makes set-up and take-down much easier. My greatest risk to falling is probably in my choice of objects to attach to.

08-14-2006, 06:19 AM	#6
Marc Kriss Member Profile: Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern MD Posts: 45	Daniel- thanks. so basically, the tubular webbing attaches directly to the structure (tree in my case), and the carabiner is between the climbing rope and the webbing? so does the webbing ever come off of the structure? seems like that would always stay, and the carabiner would allow you to remove the rope whenever needed. sorry for the basic questions, but this is new to me, and really i have never seen anything to base it on. if you have pics please post. thanks-

08-14-2006, 04:04 PM	#7
Daniel Carney Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Missoula MT Posts: 37	Here's how I secure my rope and rings using the webbing and carabiner. http://www.crossfit.com/discus/messages/26/28721.jpg

08-14-2006, 04:36 PM	#8
Rene Renteria Member Profile: Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco CA Posts: 364	Re: pic above--You might want to put longer tails on your water knots and make sure the biner on the left can't slip up over the bar or under the rope and get cross-loaded. Consider using a locking biner if the climbing rope will be hung pretty high. Best, Rene'

08-14-2006, 05:48 PM	#9
Paul Findley Member Profile: Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Longmont CO Posts: 1,257	That there is a single point of failure :-) If it does not need to be portable, remove the biner and just tie 2 <redundant> loops of nylon webbing. (Message edited by paul on August 14, 2006)

08-15-2006, 06:12 AM	#10
Scott Kustes Member Profile: Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 1,258	Great information all. Thanks! I'm going to have to give some thought to manila vs outdoor rope...I'm not sure leaving it up all the time is going to be good for my liability, but taking it down/putting it up is going to require acquisition of a taller ladder than I have. Hmmm....I think I'll get the webbing and a locking biner to wrap the tree, then I'll just have to put the rope on the biner and climb. So "2nd point of failure" will be a second webbing from the same biner (to a different branch) or a 2nd biner and webbing?