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Old 12-28-2006, 05:29 PM   #2
Tim Triche, Jr.
Member Tim Triche, Jr. is offline
 
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Altadena  CA
Posts: 114
pronator and extensor exercises might help:

http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training...training.shtml

http://www.pamf.org/sports/king/wrist.html

I built a custom pronation exerciser from a 6-inch ABS pipe junction (purchased at Red's Plumbing Supply for $10) and a 2-inch wooden dowel (found in my garage) which I screwed into place with lag screws after drilling holes on each side of the pipe. The dowel sits in the middle of the pipe across its diameter and about halfway around the pipe I have put a knotted piece of 1-inch nylon webbing to track up an arbitrary amount of plates. Anything more than about 15 pounds feels immovable when you do the exercise correctly.

There is a picture of this rig in 'How to Climb 5.12' (Horst's book), he suggests that pronator deficiencies are to blame for many elbow troubles. Whether or not he is correct, it seems to have helped me to do this. I also do extension work, usually with an 8kg kettlebell that I bought for my wife. The handle makes a good fulcrum.

Hope this helps. If your symptoms improve after a couple weeks of this type of regimen, please do confirm or disconfirm. There isn't much data out there on preventive therapy for either extensor or flexor imbalances, I keep hoping that Crossfit will force the issue for enough people that a decent amount of data can be collected...
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