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JT Kalnay 06-28-2011 02:57 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Tuesday June 28, 2011 pm

Leg Press
3-3...-3 from 20# up to 300# adding 20# per iteration

1x380 (barely)
failed at 400

did 30 seconds on wobble board in between iterations

Tim Babcock 06-28-2011 05:10 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
10 sprints up reservoir hill. Walk down to recover.

JT Kalnay 06-29-2011 06:12 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Wednesday June 29, 2011

a.m., swam 100s, one with the gloves on
p.m., GTOs, standing on one leg, and walking lunges (ought to be a barfer)

Did you guys decide on nrg/rrg yet?

Tim Babcock 06-29-2011 08:40 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Warm Up
1 Problem
10 Burpees
5 Rounds

Pyramid Fingerboard Workout

Elbow RX

Leaving tomorrow to climb two days at NRG.

Jeffrey Fortuna 06-29-2011 09:14 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Jt, I'll be at The New Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

JT Kalnay 06-30-2011 05:08 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Thursday June 30, 2011

Stand up paddleboarding at Bradstreet Landing in Rocky River.

Which means lots of swimming wind sprints to chase down the paddleboard.

Also did surfboard swimming wind sprints to train for surfing.
Swimming in the pool does little, if anything, for surfboard swimming.
The arms are really out to the side and you can't rotate around your hips like you can when you're swimming in the pool. I think the only way to train for surfboard paddling is to paddle a surfboard....

JT Kalnay 07-02-2011 06:31 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Canada Day

Rest day (12 hours editing Wounded Warriors)

Saturday July 2, 2011

Long walk in a beautiful park stopping occassionally to swing a weighted club...

Tim Babcock 07-03-2011 11:24 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
1 Attachment(s)
Friday and Saturday-Went to New River with family. Met Jeff and friends for climbing.
Thursday evening the family and I took a hike down to Summersville Lake from our campsite. Pretty tough hike. We were rewarded with great views and awesome swimming. I also did a little deep water traversing. Fun!!!
Friday we climbed at Summersville. The main focus of the day was Narcissus 12a. After much work all three of us sent. Steep, pumpy and fun!
Saturday we went to Endless. Jeff and I warmed up and jumped on Positron (12a). We both sent(repeat for me). Next we jumped on Le Futurist (12b). I had a decent onsight attempt. Got through the lower slap crux clean but then had to work out the arete farther. Felt really hard on the onsight attempt. Jeff jumped on it next and did really well. If he jumps on it soon and in good conditions he will send for sure. On my second attempt I sent it. Great route! Another Endless Wall classic.

10 KBS 53#
20 Push Ups
20 Double Unders
10 Rounds
About 45 minutes. I kept the intensity at about 75%.

JT did a workout and then did some [B]heavy[/B] deadlifting. He also did some hamming it up for the camera. Stay tuned.

JT Kalnay 07-03-2011 12:51 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
2 Attachment(s)
Sunday July 3rd, 2011

ten swings of every KB in the SoP, with 3 DL in b/w each set of swings.


deadlifted up to 390, failed on first attempt, got it on the second.

I want LOTS OF RAW MEAT!!!!!

Tim Babcock 07-04-2011 09:46 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
3 TGU's each side 15-20-35-45-53
5 Burpees
Boulder Problem
5 Rounds

1 Boulder Problem
10 GHD situps
10 Back Extensions
5 Rounds

1 Boulder Problem
5 HSPU (strict)
5 Rounds

1 Boulder Problem
10 one-legged squats-alternating to a 16" box
5 Rounds

Elbow RX

JT Kalnay 07-04-2011 01:15 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Friday July 4th

Helped set up food pavillion.

Judged parade.

Very long walk in a hilly park occassionally swinging a weighted club (8 over par).

Volunteering in pop tent 5-10...

Wounded Warriors came out today:


Tim Babcock 07-05-2011 09:13 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Treadmill Run
Warm up
2.5 minutes @ 4.0mph-1% incline
2.5 minutes @ 6.0mph-1% incline
30 seconds run + 30 seconds rest @8.0-8.5-9.0-9.5-10

60 seconds work + 60 seconds rest - 8 rounds @ 7.0mph-12% incline

5 minute walking cooldown

I got this workout from [U]Enter the Kettlebell[/U] by Pavel

I plan on doing this workout once a week gradually increasing the intensity.

Jeff, I would love to hear how the rest of your weekend went.

JT Kalnay 07-05-2011 03:21 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Tuesday July 5th, 2011

Active Rest Day

Did one DGU ( a TGU but with a dumbell... ) on each side, starting at 5# and going up as high as I could, adding 5# each time.

5-10-15-20-25-30-35-40 up and down
45 up only
50 up only (PR)
55, failed on both sides requiring dumping the dumbell b/c it got too far out to the side on the stand up part (note to self, do not try to share the same space as the kettlebell.....:yikes:)

Jeffrey Fortuna 07-06-2011 05:44 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Trip report July 1-4, 2011
Personal Pronoun 5.9 warmup
Chewy 5.10b onsight
Narcissus 5.12a redpoint
George of the Gorge 5.9 warmup
Positron 5.12a redpoint
Le Futuriste 5.12b top rope
Roadtripped to Grayson Highlands in Virginia with Lena and Dan Brayack. Dan is doing the guide book for Grayson, so he took a bunch of pictures of us doing a various problems, mostly v3 and v4. It's a pretty new, undeveloped bouldering crag with some good problems. The rock is VERY sharp, so we didn't do a lot of climbing.
Immaculate Combustion 5.10d
I set the draws for Lena, but she bailed after the second clip. Lead it again to get my draws back, then we went home. The rock was soaked from the humidity, making climbing absolutely misserable.

JT Kalnay 07-06-2011 06:21 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Wednesday July 7, 2011

Swam 100s. (going to try a long swim soon..)

Nice trip reports.

Tim Babcock 07-06-2011 09:01 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
1 Boulder Problem
5 Burpees
5 Rounds

Weighted Pull Ups
3 0#
3 10#
3 20#
3 30#
3 35#
3 40#

Pyramid Hangboard Workout

Elbow RX

JT Kalnay 07-07-2011 06:32 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Thursday 7/7/11

a.m., swam 1000m
p.m., burpee pullups...

Tim Babcock 07-07-2011 07:38 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain

50-40-30-20 and 10 rep rounds of:
Wall ball shots, 20 pound ball
Box jump, 24 inch box
Kettlebell swings, 1.5 pood

JT Kalnay 07-07-2011 03:21 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Thursday July 7, 2011


50 burpees, 7:10
50 jumping pullups 2:31
15 seconds on, 15 seconds off, plank, x10

6 donuts, 5:23 (d*mn it!)

Jeffrey Fortuna 07-07-2011 06:17 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Thursday 7-7-2011
I know this is nuts, but I'm headed to the Red this weekend. I'm such an idiot!:shrug:

Norm Swann 07-08-2011 03:03 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Tim; great time on "Morrison"!!!

JT Kalnay 07-09-2011 03:58 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Saturday July 9, 2011

a.m., walked one hour up and down at Hinckley

p.m., Xfit Games Open WOD #1
AMRAP in 10 minutes
30 du, 15 gto 75#

made 2 rounds & 17 dus,
finished the third round in 12:32

compare to first try at this WOD on 3-19-11 in the SoP (1 round + 30dus + 5gto)

got in 10 more gtos and 17 more dus.

The dus were easier, but the GTOs were harder. Am 6 pounds lighter today doing this than I was on 3-19-11.

JT Kalnay 07-09-2011 04:08 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
1 Attachment(s)
Saturday July 9, 2011

Witnessed at Hinckley!

needs a caption....

Tim Babcock 07-09-2011 07:04 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Climbed at Hinckley with Rick and JT. O-Wall. Did all 3 versions several times. Fun.

JT Kalnay 07-10-2011 08:53 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Sunday July 10, 2011

Karen: 13:41, with elbows touching outside the thighs on each rep, with the sand filled b-ball instead of the big ball. The big ball makes my elbows hurt...

Then did some OHS practice (was this a good idea after Karen???)

Going to play 18 this afternoon in the heat to train for N.C.!

Tim Babcock 07-10-2011 09:00 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
8 KBS 2 pood
12 GHD situps
AMRAP 8 minutes
5 Rounds

Elbow RX

JT Kalnay 07-10-2011 03:15 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Sunday July 10, 2011

rode TWO laps around the farm with Emma (age 7), Elli (age 8) rode one lap, and Eve (age 5) made half a lap. way to go girls!!

played 18 in the heat, was able to avoid "coming over the top" most of the day, and shot 4 shots better than friday on the same course. man it was hot...

Jeffrey Fortuna 07-10-2011 06:38 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Just got home from probably the worst climbing trip I've ever been on. The first route on Saturday, Trad Sucker, felt hard and it was only a 5.11c. I ended up redpointing it on the second go, but it was a bad omen for the rest of the weekend. Next I got on Twisted 5.11b, that I had top roped last trip to the Red, and redpointed it first go. Next got on Ale 8 one 5.12b at the mother load. It was all I could do to go from bolt to bolt. I did all the moves but in no way did I feel like I could send it. On Sunday I got on a 5.10 something to warmup and couldn't get past the first bolt. I tried three times but my head wouldn't let me pull over the low bulge. I got so ****ed at myself that I wasn't able to climb the rest of the day. All I could think was "I hate over hanging routes." I never want to go to the Red again. I HATE IT!

JT Kalnay 07-11-2011 06:53 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Monday July 11, 2011

Swam 1100m in 26:47 using the pull buoy b/c my thighs, hips, and lower back wouldn't work after yesterday's Karen then biking then golf.

@Jeff, sorry to hear about the RRG trip. Sounds like NRG trips where 1/2 the time is spent at the cirque and the other half is spent on either side of the cirque are likely in your future. Or, at the RRG, there is Military wall, which has some really nice face climbing about 40 yards away from some crazy overhanging RRG stuff. The motherlode is only one of hundreds of crags at the RRG, there are other crags where there are NRG-like face climbs very near to more RRG-overhanging-pockety stuff. For example, there is Autograph 11a (crazy RRG overhanging crap) right beside Apopleptic Chick from Missouri 10b, NRG face climb. Both of these climbs are 100 yards from a very nice wall that has both Jill-like 12a face climbs and Lena-like overhanging RRG monsters. So, before you go the next time, and you know you're going again..., let's get into my guidebook and pick an area that will accomodate both your styles...

Tim Babcock 07-11-2011 09:10 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
2 TGU's each side (every kb in the shed-5-10-10-15-20-35-45-53-72) took the 72# kb outside!
1 Problem
9 rounds + 1 additional problem to make it an even 10.

Fingerboard Workout 45 Minutes

Afterwards I tried some HSPU on my parallettes (thanks Jeff). I did better than I thought I would. Fun.

Jeff, I'm sure the heat didn't help the climbing. This fall the rock will feel magical after climbing mid summer. I also agree with JT's advice.

JT Kalnay 07-11-2011 09:15 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain

Next time you are at the RRG, try this area.


Jill onsighted Crack the Whip and said "This is like being at the New, not like being at the Red" (after spending a few days dealing with the overhanging pocket fests at Motherlode and other areas).

There is a new 13b arrete that is a 5 star classic near Crack the Whip, and several warmups in the area. Also, if the kids are there, there is a 40' 5.5 at Left Field that is about 100 yards away from sore heel. A beautiful 5.10 warmup (Apopleptic Chick) and a heinous overhanging 11a (autograph) on the same crag (for people who like to warmup on heinous overhanging stuff). The approach for sore heel is very moderate, and there are NRG-like climbs near RRG like climbs.

So, before giving up on the RRG, and all the "benefits" it may have to offer, please consider exploring this sore heel area. I was able to climb comfortably there with climbers who were solid at 5.5, and with climbers who were onsighting 13s...

Also, it gets much less traffic than other areas (except the 5.5 sport route, b/c it is a favorite "first lead" for new sport leaders).

Jeffrey Fortuna 07-11-2011 10:51 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
The climb I self-destructed on is Girls Gone Wild...WOO!, a 5 star 5.10d at Shady Grove just down from from the wall you are talking about. We actually walked past all of those routes, that Lena has already done, on our way out. I seem to be incapable of warming up on anything overhanging. By the third failed attempt at this easy warmup, I was so upset with myself that I couldn't even control my breathing. I don't loose my temper often, but when I do, it wreaks me for the whole day. I still don't feel well the next day.:ranting2:

JT Kalnay 07-11-2011 02:18 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
It's only 4.5 hours to Mount Nemo... (don't forget your passports and lonnnng stick clip)

Less than vertical limestone, dead vertical limestone, overhanging pockets (for Lena), to nearly crazy undercut roofy limestone (for sharma).


warm up on this route...


then try this route

and then try this route

Tim Babcock 07-12-2011 08:00 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Treadmill Run
Warm up
2.5 minutes @ 4.0mph-1% incline
2.5 minutes @ 6.0mph-1% incline
30 seconds run + 30 seconds rest @8.0-8.5-9.0-9.5-10

60 seconds work + 60 seconds rest - 8 rounds @ [B]7.1[/B]mph-12% incline

5 minute walking cooldown

Felt hard.

JT Kalnay 07-12-2011 08:16 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Tuesday July 12, 2011

Played 9 holes in 4 over, should have been under par...

Climbed 10 easy routes and 1 moderate route.

I am still sore from Karen and OHS practice on Sunday.

Jeffrey Fortuna 07-13-2011 05:34 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Tuesdsay 7-12-2011
10 rounds of:
1 boulder problem,
5 pull-ups,
5 dips

JT Kalnay 07-13-2011 07:32 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Wednesday July 13, 2011

Swam 100 meter repeats, all but one were under 2:00.

Am really feeling that workout already...

Tim Babcock 07-13-2011 07:45 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
6 Muscle Ups
10 OHS 95#
5 Rounds

Heading to Summersville tomorrow with Rick for a couple of days.

JT Kalnay 07-13-2011 06:48 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Wednesday July 13, 2011


"ran" once around the block in 5:07 said it is .47 miles

then did 100 bench presses
then worked dip practice (assisted dips, weights)

man am I sore from this morning's swim, and I usually don't get sore until the day after...

Jeffrey Fortuna 07-14-2011 06:08 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Wednesdsay 7-10-2011
3mi. slow. I didn't even wear a watch. I am really out of shape.:(

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