Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

2 problems
3 TGUs 35, 45, 53, 62, 71#
5 second 2-finger hang
5 rounds

2 additional problems

Fingerboarding for Maximum Strength

Crimp, middle two and pinch are the grips trained.

Workout A:
After doing a climbing workout.
Using the crimp grip, perform 4 sets of 10 second hangs separated by a 2 minute rest. Progression is done by increasing the number of sets each workout to 5 sets then 6. Once 6 sets has been reached you will have done this workout 3 times with this weight. It is time to re-test. If you're only testing one grip on the re-test day test immediately after a warm-up and before any sort of serious climbing training. If you're doing a three grip re-test then devote an entire day to it. In addition to keeping up to date with progress in strength, the re-test day also functions as a heavy training day.

Today
6 sets of 10 seconds for each grip.
Crimp 50# 10, 7, 8, 6, 8, 10
2-finger 5# 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10
Pinch Block 35# L/R 9/10, 10/9, 7/7, 10/10, 10/10, 6/10

Worked in mobility work on hips.

Retest on Thursday.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Saturday 3-12-2016
Bouldered at The Rock Mill with Tim and Beth. Did a lot of good problems even sent a couple harder ones.

Pull-up and ring-dip pyramid plus 5 goblet squats (25lb) each set.
1-2-3-4-5-4-3-2-1

Monday 3-14-2016
Treadmill run.
.25mi. @3.5mph,
3.0mi. @6.0mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph

5 rounds of:
10 deadlifts (135lb),
10 push-ups

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

10 goblet squats 25, 30, 40#
5 strict pull-ups
5 burpees
shoulder mobilization routine
3 rounds

A.
Every 2 minutes, for 16 minutes (4 sets of each):
Station 1 – 2 Weighted Pull-Ups (40#) + 4 Strict Supinated + 6 Pronated-Grip Pull-Ups

Station 2 – KB Floor PressesX 8 reps 35, 53, 53, 53

B.
For time:
Air-Dyne 1 mile
20 Strict Handstand Push-Ups
30 Ring Dips
40 Push-Ups
13:35

Banded Couch Stretch

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

2 problems
10 push-ups
10 pronators
5-10 second 2-finger hang
5 rounds

Time to retest.
Hangboard strength training protocol.
Step 1
Determine weight for workouts. Followed the protocol as described at [url]http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/f...-strength.html[/url] WFS
Crimp 45# (Actually lost 5 lbs)
2-finger 10# (Gained 5 lbs)
Pinch Block 35#-same

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Monday 3-14-2016
Treadmill Run:
.25mi @3.5mph,
3.0mi @6.1mph,
.25mi @3.5mph

5 rounds of:
5 pull-ups,
10 push-ups,
15 sit-ups,
20 squats

Tuesday 3-15-2016
Bouldered at CRG with Beth

Pull-up and ring-dip pyramid
1-2-3-4-3-2-1

Thursday 3-17-2016
Bouldered at CRG with Beth for almost 3 hours.

Friday 3-18-2016
Treadmill Run:
.25mi @3.5mph,
3.0mi @6.1mph,
.25mi @3.5mph

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

10 goblet squats 25, 30, 40#
5 strict pull-ups 0, 10, 20#
5 burpees
shoulder mobilization routine
3 rounds

A.
Every minute on the minute for 15 minutes (5 sets):
Station 1 – Deadlift x 6 reps 185#
Station 2 – Alternating Reverse Lunges x 10 -Goblet Hold 20, 25, 30, 35, 40#
Station 3 – Single-Arm DB Press x 6 each arm 25, 30, 35, 35, 35

B.
Complete as many rounds and reps as possible in 15 minutes of:
Air-Dyne 0.5 mile
15 Strict Pull-Ups
15 Kettlebell Swings 53#
4 rounds + 0.12 mile Air-Dyne

Couch Stretch and 5 strict ring muscle ups.

I also taught my class Physical Education today (PE teacher was absent). We did a variety of relay races which I participated in. Afterwards we played basketball. My students kept telling me "We didn't know you could move so fast." It's good to be relatively fit.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Saturday
Bouldered at Rock Mills with Jeff and Beth. Saw some friends I haven't seen in years. Fun. Later I did some mobility work in the Shed. Hip flexors are chronically tight.

Today
10 kettlebell wall-ball shots
5 strict pull ups
5 burpees
shoulder mobilization routine
3 rounds

A.
Five sets of:
Kettlebell Swings x 20 reps 53#
Rest 60 seconds
Goblet Squat x 10 reps 53#
Rest 60 seconds
Turkish Get-Up x 2 reps each arm 35, 45, , 53, 62, 71#
Rest 60 seconds

B.
Complete as many rounds and reps as possible in 8 minutes of:
30 Double-Unders
20 Box Jumps
10 Kettlebell Push Press (Double 35 pounders)
3 rounds

Banded Samson Stretch

5 kipping bar muscle ups + 4 strict bar muscle ups

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

3 problems
10 push-ups
5-10 second 2-finger hang
10 reverse wrist curls
5 rounds

Fingerboarding for Maximum Strength

Crimp, middle two and pinch are the grips trained.

Workout A:
Today
4 sets of 10 seconds for each grip.
Crimp 45# 10, 10, 10, 10
2-finger 10# 6, 7, 8, 10
Pinch Block 35# L/R 10/10, 8/9, 10/8, 10/10

Worked in banded Samson stretch, 25 HSPUs, and 25 ring dips.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Saturday 3-19-2016
Bouldered at The Rock Mill with Tim and Beth. Both of you guys inspire me to push myself harder than I can do on my own. Thank you.

Monday 3-21-2016
Treadmill Run:
.25mi @3.5mph,
4.0mi @6.1mph,
.25mi @3.5mph

5 rounds of:
5 pull-ups,
10 push-ups,
15 sit-ups,
20 squats

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Tuesday 3-22-2016
Treadmill run:
.25mi. @3.5mph,
.25mi. @7.0mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph,
.25mi. @7.2mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph,
.25mi. @7.4mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph,
.25mi. @7.6mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph,
.25mi. @7.8mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph,
.25mi. @8.0mph,
.25mi. @3.5mph

Bouldered at CRG with Beth about 2 hours. Didn't work on anything hard but did a lot of easy and moderates as smoothly and as controlled as possible. One guy came up to us and said, "You both climb so pretty." I'll take that as a compliment.

Pull-up and ring-dip pyramid
1-2-3-4-3-2-1