Re: The Barn
 

50 AbMat situps, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU

Tabata false grip hang-trying to get my elbows to straighten out

4-3-2-1-1-2-3-4 Wall climbs

DU: 51-99-100

Worked on HS

Hot Yoga

Re: The Barn
 

2.71 mile run w/Sandy

Later:
50 AbMat situps, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU

Worked on HS

Tabata false grip hang-trying to get my elbows to straighten out

Rower: 5 mins.

Re: The Barn
 

10/14/16
Meadow
3rd Buttress Lieutenant Tomek 5.9 Onsight
Tim Babcock, Jeff Fortuna, Joel
King Lichen Me 5.10a Onsight
Alleluja 5.10c Onsight
Joli goes to Zermont 5.11b Onsight
Coffindaffer’s Dream 5.11b Flash

10/15/16
Meadow Located between 2nd and 3rd Buttress ? 5.9 Flash
Tim Babcock, Jeff Fortuna, Joel
? 5.10? Flash
3rd Buttress La Senora No Contenta 5.11c Flash
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg 5.11b TR Flash

10/16/16
Kaymoor Low Voltage 5.10b Redpoint
Tim Babcock, Jeff Fortuna
Lost Souls 5.12a Falls-hang draws
Lost Souls 5.12a 1 Fall

Great trip with great people; first trip with Joel and Jeff in a long time. Always great climbing with Tim.

Re: The Barn
 

Mon:
Fizek-Boot Camp then Hot Yoga

Tues:
Rock Mill:Handstand and ring class w/Antonio: 1 hour
HS are averaging 5 secs.; hand balance is improving, Did 13(PR) strict MU: 3-3-4-3.

Climb for several hours afterwards; did all pink routes, Completed 1 purple after working it, worked a second and will get it next time.

Re: The Barn
 

shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU

5 ring pull-ups (2 count up, hold for one, four count down)

Tabata false grip hang

5 right leg pistols; flat foot(used 5lbs. for 2)
2 right leg pistols w/5lbs., unable to complete w/o weight-leg felt weak

DU: 40-75-105

Head stand in lotus position: first one since I was a young man

Hot Yoga

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Sun: Climb at Hinckley w/Rick, Don, Robert & Nahomi: Crack, Burnout, Banana, Banana Center(got it on 4th try), worked on bottom moves to And Now for Something Completely Different, 3 Snoopy Routes.

Mon:
Fizek-Boot Camp then Hot Yoga

Tues:
Rock Mill:Handstand and ring class w/Antonio: 1 hour
HS are averaging 3 secs.; Did 13 strict MU: 4-3-3-3.

Climb for several hours afterwards; Completed 1 purple after working it and worked on 2 more, did all pink routes.

Re: The Barn
 

Wed: Misc workout including 1-2-3-1 strict MU
Hot Yoga

Saturday: Climb at Hinckley w/Tim & Don 3 Banana routes: work on And Now for Something Completely Different and When You Dance. 3 Snoopy routes, Crack, Burnout, right arete, Hate Route

Re: The Barn
 

Mon:
Fizek-Boot Camp then Hot Yoga

Tues:
Rock Mill:Handstand and ring class w/Antonio: 1 hour, worked on cartwheeling out of hand stand; Did 11 strict MU: 1-3-4-3. Shoulder dumbbell raises to work out shoulder pain.

Climb for several hours afterwards; Completed 3 purple routes after working them, did all yellow routes.

Wednesday: Climb at Hinckley w/Rick & Nahomi- 3 Banana routes: work on And Now for Something Completely Different, Buzzard Direct and When You Dance. Crack, Burnout, Buzzard Direct Direct, right & left arete, Hate Route

Re: The Barn
 

Thursday: Yoga

Saturday: Climb at Hinckley w/Rick, Robert & Nahomi, Tim, Jeff & Matt- 3 Banana routes, And Now for Something Completely Different (got it second go), worked on Buzzard Direct and When You Dance. J.B.N.(several attempts before it went), Crack, Buzzard Direct Direct, Hate Route (did Rick's new finish).

Sunday: The Barn
Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs., 50 AbMat Situps, 10 HS attempts w/cartwheel escape, 5 ring pull-ups (2 count up, hold for one, four count down), Strict MU (slow) 1-2-3-2-1, Roller

Re: The Barn
 

Monday: Boot Camp, Hot Yoga

Tues:Rock Mill:Handstand and ring class w/Antonio: 1 hour, worked on cartwheeling out of hand stand; Did 13 strict MU: 1-5(PR)-4-3. Shoulder dumbbell raises to work out shoulder pain-5 lbs.

Climb for several hours afterwards; Completed several purple routes after working them, one blue-worked another blue and 1 orange.

Re: The Barn
 

Thursday: The Barn
Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs., 50 AbMat Situps, 10 HS attempts w/cartwheel escape, 5 ring pull-ups (2 count up, hold for one, four count down), MU w/o flash grip x-1-1-x-2-1, Strict MU 1-2-2, Roller

Saturday: Climb at the Mill w/Tim & Jeff; Got 2 blue routes and 1 orange; worked on several other blues. Practiced HS on concrete w/Jeff & Ames

Re: The Barn
 

Monday: Boot Camp, Hot Yoga

Tues:Rock Mill: Climb for several hours; Worked on several blue routes.

Wed: Fizek, misc exercises plus strict MU 1-1-2-2 and MU w/o false grip 1-2-1-2,
DU 53-92-93-100 (100 total)
Hot Yoga

Thursday: Hinckley

Saturday: Mill w/Tim and Jeff, 5 Blue Routes(1 flash, 1 repeat readpoint, 3 redpoints) 1 orange
Yoga w/Erin Larson

Sunday:The Barn
Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs., 50 AbMat Situps, 10 HS attempts w/cartwheel escape, 5 ring pull-ups (2 count up, hold for one, four count down), MU w/o flash grip x-1-1-1-x-1-1, Strict MU 2-3-4-3, 15 Reverse Hyper @ 90 lbs., Roller

Re: The Barn
 

Monday: Boot Camp cancelled; misc exercises-10 HS attempts w/o wall
Hot Yoga

Tuesday-Rock Mill:Handstand and ring class w/Antonio: 1 hour, worked on hand stand w/o wall; Did 12 strict MU: 1-3-5-3. Learned forward roll on rings.
Climb w/ Miles and Mark: Flashed 1 blue, got another blue on 2nd go, did 2 more blues that were previously redpointed, worked on 2 more blues (close to sending 1 of the 2).

Wed-Fizek: misc exercises, 10 HS attempts w/o wall
Hot Yoga

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!

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Mill w/Tim,Robert,Kevin,Matt,Ken,Laura
Worked on blue from Tuesday: several orange. Not my best day but a lot of fun!

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Saturday:The Barn
Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs., 50 AbMat Situps, 10 HS attempts w/cartwheel escape (+2 attempts on parallettes), 5 ring pull-ups (2 count up, hold for one, four count down), Forward roll on rings 9 attempts + 1 susseccful(almost 2), MU w/o false grip x-x-x-1-x, Strict MU 2-1-2, 15 Reverse Hyper @ 90 lbs., Roller

Tuesday-Rock Mill:Handstand and ring class w/Antonio: 1 hour, worked on hand stand w/o wall; Did 9 strict MU: 1-3-5. Forward roll on rings. Got 2 in row + 2 singles; several other attempts
Climb w/ Miles, Lindsey & Nahomi: Worked on 3 oranges, 1 black, 2 purple, Onsighted 2 purple and 1 pink

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Mon: Boot Camp, Hot Yoga
Wed: Misc Exercises, Hot Yoga last class at Fizek
Dr apt for left shoulder on Monday.

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Left rotator cuff Tendinitis
1. Up to 8 weeks of rest
2. Anti-Inflammatory
3. Physical Therapy

Re: The Barn
 

Tues: Sports Therapy- several exercises with low weight to work the smaller rotator cuff muscle-several times a week.

Re: The Barn
 

1-12-17 Sports Therapy: massage, manipulation. Felt weird for two days but feels better now(1-17-17).

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1-18-2017 Sports Therapy: massage, manipulation, a couple easy exercises. Feels a little better.

Thursday: Yoga- a little pain in childs pose but felt ok.

Re: The Barn
 

WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs.,

Sports Therapy exercises: 5 exercises at 2.5 lbs; 3 sets of 10. The low weight is so the smaller muscles will be used; with heavier weights the bigger muscles will kick in.

15 Reverse Hyper @ 90 lbs.
5 reps each of:
Bench Press 90 lbs.
Deadlift 90 lbs.
Back Squat 90 lbs.
Military Press 55 lbs.
15 Reverse Hyper @ 90 lbs.

Re: The Barn
 

1-25-17 Sports Therapy: massage, manipulation.
1-26-17 Yoga
1-29-17 Mill: All greens and yellow; All but 2 pinks.

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2-1-17 Sports Therapy: massage, manipulation.
2-2-17 Yoga
2-4-17 Mill: Yellows, Pinks, a few purple.
2-7-17 Mill: Yellows, Pinks, a few purple.
2-8-17 Sports Therapy:massage, manipulation.
Saw the Dr. right after; not much improvement-Cortisone shot in left shoulder.
2-9-17 Yoga, took it easy, shoulder feeling better

Re: The Barn
 

2/11/17 Rock Mill: Took a uncontrolled fall at end of session, whipped my neck(glasses shot off) discomfort on left side of lower back

2/12/17 Neck and back very sore

2/14/17 Neck pain gone, back still sore-reverse hyper and roller-felt better on Friday

2/18/17 Rock Mill: Felt pretty good; still a little sore.

Re: The Barn
 

Rock Mill: 2 hours
Repeated 1 blue, worked another and finally got it. Several purple
Endurance still not where it should be.

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2/23/17 Yoga

2/25/17 Rock Mill: Repeated 1 blue, Worked another to redpoint, made good progress on a third. Redpointed all purple but 4. Several other routes; another fun day at the Mill

Re: The Barn
 

Rock Mill:Redpointed 1 blue, Worked all the moves on orange, Repeated 1 Blue, Blackpointed one blue, Repeat all purples but 2 (forgot to try another one), another fun day!

Re: The Barn
 

WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs.,

10 HS attempts

False grip strict MU 1-1-x-1
MU x-x-x

Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb
Shoulder Press; 5 reps of: 50,55,8 reps of 60 ; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Deadlift-Bench-Squat; 3 reps of: 75, 90, 8 reps of 100; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb

Re: The Barn
 

Sat: Chicks gym

Sun: WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs.,

10 HS attempts- a little improvement

False grip strict MU 1-1-2-1
MU x-x-x-x-x

Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb
Shoulder Press; 5 reps of: 50,55,8 reps of 60 ; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Deadlift-Bench-Squat; 3 reps of: 75, 90, 8 reps of 100; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb

Re: The Barn
 

Tues: Rock Mill; fun new routes


Wed: WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs.,

10 HS attempts- a little more improvement

False grip strict MU 1-2-2
MU x-x-x-x-x

Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb
Shoulder Press; 5 reps of: 50,55,8 reps of 60 ; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Deadlift-Bench-Squat; 3 reps of: 75, 90, 8 reps of 100; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb

Re: The Barn
 

Sat: Rock Mill

Sun: Split Wood

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3-15-17 Wed: WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 AbMat Sit-ups, shoulder band stretches, wrist stretches,
50 SU/25 x-overs/50 alt footsteps, 25 DU, 3 wrist rolls @ 16.25 lbs.,

1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 1 strict MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 2 strict MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 3 strict MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 1 attempt at non FG MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 1 attempt at non FG MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 1 attempt at non FG MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 1 attempt at non FG MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 1 attempt at non FG MU
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 50 Ab Mat Situps
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 7 strict ring dips
1 HS attempt, 1 Climbing Route, 8 strict ring dips
Finish Climbing routes

Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb
Shoulder Press; 3 reps of: 50,60,10 reps of 65 ; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Deadlift-Bench-Squat; 3 reps of: 85, 95, 10 reps of 105; 1.5 min. rest in-between
Reverse Hyper: 15 reps of 90 lb

Sat:Rock Mill, Have done 5/11 blue routes (redpointed 2 more today and worked on 3 more)

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Thurs: Yoga

Saturday: Rock Mill, got 1 more blue and 1 orange

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Mon: Rock Mill
Made progress on 2 more blue routes, repeated 3 blue, worked to repeat several other blues-several purple

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Colonoscopy is in the rear view mirror!

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Rock Mill: Felt weak: Did 1 low end blue and all purple + a few pink.
5 HS attempts
1-2-1 False grip strict MU

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Tuesday: Mill, WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 3 band exercises, 50 SU, 25 x-over, 50 alt footstep, 25 DU.
Flash 1 orange, Flash 1 blue, Redpoint 2 blues, worked on 2 blues, made progress on 1, Redpoint all purples(no falls), few pinks, yellow and green
5 HS attempts, 2-2-2-1 strict MU w/false grip

Felt a lot stronger compared to Saturday.

Re: The Barn
 

Rock Mill, WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 SU, 25 x-over, 50 alt footstep, 25 DU.
Redpoint 1 new blue, flash blue, work on black, flash orange, redpoint blue

Re: The Barn
 

Rock Mill, WU: Arm/Leg Swings, 50 SU, 25 x-over, 50 alt footstep, 25 DU.
Redpoint 1 white, work on 2 blues, work on black, work on white, work on purple, flash 2 new pinks, redpoint blue

5 HS attempts, False grip strict MU 1-1-1-2-1

Re: The Barn
 

Tuesday: Hinckley