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-   -   A different way to have fun with pipe (http://board.crossfit.com/showthread.php?t=14353)

Ahmik Jones 01-03-2007 11:44 AM

We toyed with a few ideas when trying to figure out how to put in pull-up bars in our new facility.

We considered welding, but what we had in mind would have to be assembled on the spot because it would not fit into the door, and we had no idea of how to lift it.

We thought about threaded pipe from home depot, but that limits your options, because of the need to add a coupler anytime you make a loop in the pipe.

I remembered Andy Petranek's pull up bar pictured on the site a couple of years ago http://www.crossfit.com/mt-archive2/...s-oct-2005.jpg (work family safe), so we asked him how he made it. He used something called Speed-Rail fittings that slip on and are then held in place with set screws. He said that they were extremely solid and he had not even had to re-tighten the screws since he installed it.

The company that makes them is: http://www.hollaender.com (work family safe)

We purchased them along with the pipe, cut to our specifications at a store called industrial metal supply. http://www.imsmetals.com (work family safe). They are also available on the web at http://www.budget-fence.com/htm/holl...hollaender.htm (work family safe).

Industrial metal supply cut our pipe the day we ordered it and delivered it to us the next morning. If the pieces would have fit in our truck we could have taken it home that day.

They are a little more expensive than the threaded fittings, but much easier to work with and you don't have to buy threaded pipe, or pay to have it threaded. For the one inch iron pipe size version, with 2 set screws they are rated to 1800 pounds before slipping when properly torqued, and to 1000 pounds with one set screw. The rating for the 1 and 1/4 inch pipe versions was similar. One of the nice things is that the holes in the flanges are bigger than what you find in the threaded flanges allowing the use of 5/16 inch bolts.

They have around 100 different fittings allowing you to come up with all sorts of configurations. Like Andy said: "It's like an erector set for adults".

We attached ours into the ceiling at 12 points and then attached it at 5 points to the surrounding walls. We used a torque wrench to make sure that everything was properly torqued, but you could just crank it down and be fine because only 14 foot pounds of torque is required for the 1 inch version and 17 for the 1.25 inch version. We used loc-tite on all the weight bearing joints when tightening them down. The structure is rock solid and hardly moves with a bunch of people kipping on it.

We were able to get it up in about 8 hours.

If you are looking to put a pull-up bar in your garage, I would consider these fittings, due to the endless possibilities for interesting configurations and ease of installation.

Here are the pictures:

http://www.crossfit.com/discus/messages/26/34900.jpg
http://www.crossfit.com/discus/messages/26/34901.jpg

Here are the plans I used:

http://www.crossfit.com/discus/messages/26/34902.jpg

Eugene R. Allen 01-03-2007 02:07 PM

Ahmik - as with everything you do, pure genius. What a perfect set up and exactly what I had in my mind to do in my gym but no idea how to make it work. I wanted an alternative to the plumbing pipe since it is hard to connect in a closed system without the couplers and they get in the way. Beautiful work Ahmik, it's on my project list.


James R. Climer 01-03-2007 03:22 PM

Flipping sweet! I've been
drooling over the McD's playsets
that my kids love to play on
wondering where the pipes & fittings
come from. I want to make a rope
climb/ pull-up & ring tower in the
back yard.

This is the ticket, now to pencil it
into the budget.

Michael Winker 01-03-2007 03:50 PM

That...


is...


VERY...


COOL!



Nice work.

Roger Smith 01-03-2007 04:00 PM

I remember seeing that post a long time ago, but forgot about it over time. Thanks for the reminder. I may have some projects over the next few months....

Keith Wittenstein 01-03-2007 10:37 PM

That looks awesome, Ahmik.

What kind of pipe did you get? steel or aluminum? What do you look for in pipe? 1" or 1.25"? Do you know where Andy got the black pipe and how thick it is?

Ahmik Jones 01-04-2007 05:23 AM

I used 1" iron pipe size schedule 40 galvanized steel pipe(outer diameter around 1.25"). Andy used 1.25" iron pipe size schedule 40 black steel pipe. Most of the bars at CrossFit Gyms are one of those 2 sizes. Most of our women clients prefer the 1" schedule 40, while some of the men prefer 1.25". I believe Andy bought his pipe at the Industrial Metal Supply near him. However, the pipe is easy to find at just about any hardware store. The fittings are what is hard to find locally.

Keith Wittenstein 01-04-2007 07:40 AM

Thanks, Ahmik.

More questions:
How long are the pipes that run across (parallel to the windows)? Is that one 20' pipe or several smaller ones and how does that translate into strength, stability and/or ease of construction?



(Message edited by musashi on January 04, 2007)

Ahmik Jones 01-05-2007 08:25 PM

The bottom pipes on the front and the back are 20 feet long. The ones above it are made from several 4 foot sections. It was actually surprising easy to put together. We put the 2 support bars for the ends of the side closest together, then we put attached the short cross pieces to those to determine the placement of the ends of the bar away from the window. Then we added the front and back 20 foot bars. We tightened everything down and then added one vertical section of the front at a time attaching it to the ceiling. We also put in the monkey bars as we worked accross. We used a level on each section. One of the things that we had to make sure to remember was to put all of the fittings in that would be needed on to each pipe before attaching it. The plans that I made were very helpful for that. We then attached the remainder of the supports in the back and attached them to the wall. Then we moved everything around a little to make sure that it was in the proper place and level. We then backed out the set screws one at a time and put loc-tite (the blue removable kind) on them and tightened them down.

The tools required were a drill a couple of socket wrenches one with a 1/2 " deep well socket and the other with a 3/16 " allen bit, a rubber mallet for moving the bars around, and a level.

Jeremy Jones 01-11-2007 04:37 PM

I keep seeing the topic to this thread and thinking about what could be the "original" way to have fun with pipe.




The bars do look great though! Do you guys plan on covering the fiberglass insulation at some point?


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