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Norm Swann 04-28-2011 11:06 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
JT: I got the free sample of your new book from Amazon. I don't own a Kindle, but was able to have it sent to my PC via a kindle app download. Looked interesting so I purchased it. I'll let you know what I think when I finish reading it.
You are full of suprises; didn't know you were an author!

JT Kalnay 04-28-2011 02:16 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Thursday April 28, 2011


Thanks Norm. I hope you enjoy it. I hope you downloaded Mina's Eyes, b/c it has a lot of climbing in it, and climbers tend to enjoy that story. The Pattern is more of a computer geek book.

The Keeper will be released next week. It has a lot of climbing and travel in it as well.

The Trade will be released next month. It has no climbing in it...

Did you figure out your weekend schedule?

Tim Babcock 04-28-2011 04:06 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
3 TGU's each arm
5 Burpees
1 Problem
5 Rounds

3 Muscle Ups
1 Problem
10 Rounds

Elbow RX

I'm heading to the New this weekend with Rick.
JT, I will definitely check out your book.

Matt, I appreciate the tips! I do the fish oil and wrap my wrists. I will try the elbow sleeve though. Thanks.

JT Kalnay 04-29-2011 06:21 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Friday April 29, 2011

Swim Intervals, 'nuff said

10x100 all out on 3:00

fastest was 1:42, slowest was 2:07, averaged around 2:01

on #6, my arms actually stopped functioning and I had to kick the last ten yards with my legs only, it was really weird...

My third of three books to be released this week was released today.

The Keeper tracks a rock climbing boy, teenager, young man, and middle aged man as he tries to piece together lost loves and lost Native Canadian artifacts. [B]Caution[/B], this work deals with mature themes and is not suitable for younger audiences....


JT Kalnay 04-30-2011 01:23 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Satruday April 30, 2011

Rode 12 miles on my road bike today. First time outside on the roadie this year. Only rode it once last year, for about .5 of a mile, then had to stop b/c of hip pain. No hip pain today. Had to raise the seat. The surgeon told me he'd made my legs longer, now I believe him...

Riding my roadie at 240 is not the same as it was riding it at 215 before Ironman.

Also did surf board burpees today. It's like a burpee, but your hands start on a wobble board and you stand up onto a wobble board and pretend you are surfing. This is to get ready for my surfing trip at the end of May!

Tim Babcock 04-30-2011 04:46 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Beautiful day at the New. Started on Churning in the Butter 11b. Long sweet route. Rick loved it. Next we did mediocre 10s. Then I redpointed The Stick. Yeah! Finally I jumped on Blackhappy. Awesome route. Every bit as hard as J & T. I hung my way up the route. Definitely a learning experience. I will be back.

JT Kalnay 05-01-2011 05:47 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Sunday May 1st, 2011

Natural hip was sore from the roadie yesterday. So roadie is out. But that's okay. Swimming, golf, cross fitting, and occassional, casual climbing and belyaing are all in, as are slow walks in cool places like the forest, the beach, and the desert. Best to focus on what's in, not what's out.

Have decided to live the next decade as a 180# retired but active athlete.
62 pounds to get there... (the new decade starts July 22, 2011)

8 rounds +( 5 pullups, 10 pushups, air squats)

All movements were full range of motion and would have counted in an Xfit comp.

Jeffrey Fortuna 05-02-2011 09:14 AM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Climbed at The Red with Lena and her friends Paul and Christina.
Saturday we went to the Motherload. I wamred up on Twisted (5.11B), and Trad Sucker (5.12A) on top rope, then did two burns on Burlier's Bane (5.12A) and two on Ale-8-One (5.12B).
Sunday went back to the Motherload. Warmed up on the bottom of Tuna Town (5.12D) then did three burns on Ale-8-One up the the last bolt where it started to get wet.

I did all the moves on Burlier's; just need to put it all together. Very pumpy! Did Ale-8 bolt to bolt and fell off the last move before the shuts, BIG fall. Very pumpy! Did the first six? bolts of Tuna Town which is only 5.11 with one hang. Took one hang on Twisted, very pumpy, and did Trad Sucker clean. Lead everything except Twisted and Trad Sucker. Did I mention that these routes are pumpy?

JT Kalnay 05-02-2011 05:22 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Monday May 2, 2011

Wanted to do Murph in honor of Seal Team Six, but couldn't b/c of doing Cindy yesterday...

Did "Captain Kettle-Crunch-Bell"

alternate 10 kb swings with 10 crunches
start at 5# kb, add 5# every round
made it from 5# to 75# in 22:30

Sounds like you guys had fun climbing this weekend. And you're both working and sending pretty hard routes for this early in the season. Nice work. Whose around this weekend? Or will you both be in the southern regions again?

Tim Babcock 05-02-2011 06:33 PM

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
Back from the New. On Saturday morning it was raining so we went to Kaymoor. The Rico area was quite busy so we continued down to the Fire and Ice Buttress. The only thing that was dry was a 12a called S.L.A.P. It involved some powerful gastoning and getting a heel up real high. After working out the crux I pulled the rope and sent it. Next, we did a nice 10b called Almost Heaven. Finally I worked another 12a on White Wall. There are 3 12's and one 11 there. Stays dry in the rain. Neat area. Sunday we went to Junkyard and toproped some cracks. The Entertainer, Realignment, and Stuck in Another Dimension. Fun.
Jeff, sounds like you had a good time at the Red. Good to hear you were doing some leading.
JT, my dad is coming sometime Saturday. I could possible workout early Saturday morning at the Shed. I'll let you know.

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