Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Tweaked my back deadlifting today. I will have to work around it for a few days. I did manage to boulder for about an hour and a half with JT. Decent session. JT has a "Project" at the shed now.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

90 minutes bouldering in the Shed 'O Pain

2 rounds of rotator cuff therapy

1 hour of carpentry revising bouldering wall at the Farm.

9 holes of golf, 17 over par.

Golf after bouldering with Tim and doing carpentry is hard....

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Saturday 5-22-2010

Run:
40 minutes, Dear Lick trail in Brecksville Reservation with Kevin. It was pretty hilly, about 4 or 4.5 miles. The rough terain was hard on my ankle, but felt good otherwise. It was really nice to run with someone again. Kevin claims he's out of shape, but I had to work hard to keep up with him; he is such a strong runner.

Sunday 5-23-2020

Rest Day!

Rest day? I worked my but off cleaning house. God got to rest on the seventh day? What a wimp.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Monday 5-24-2010 (Victoria Day)

Returned to the pool after a month off to rest/rehab shoulder.

Did a very deliberate 400m in 9:52.

Shoulder felt fine after getting warmed up, and is still okay.
Later today and tomorrow will be the most interesting times!

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

"Heavy Cindy" - Cindy w/20# vest
AMRAP in 20 minutes
5 pull ups
10 push ups
15 air squats
13 rounds + 5 reps

It was hot in the "shed" today.:rhabdo:

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Monday 5-24-2010

Run:
7 miles in the park by Baldwin Wallace. I don't know the time because I messed-up my timer at the halway point, but I'm pretty sure it was only a 9 miin/mi pace (pretty slow but it was pretty hot).

Climb:
Bouldered (aka talked) with Brad at LifeTime. Had no energy after the run-in-the-sun. Did manage to send the new problem we set last week. Not really hard but it had a commiting last move.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Tuesday May 25, 2010

Have decided on "the next big goal".
This goal needs to understand the realities of my situation (e.g., physical limitations)

This follows in the genre of declaring and then doing an Ironman, declaring and then doing a century ride, declaring and then starting a law firm, declaring and then doing a fourteener, ...

The goal is:

climb a 5.13 before turning 51....

yes, it seems ludicrous, but then so did deciding to do an Ironman when the farthest I could swim was 25 yards, I could only ride 10 miles, and I could only "run" 1 mile.

the goal has a plan, which includes

Twenty tens in 2010 (have done several), and some elevens.
Eleven elevens in 2011, and some twelves.
Twelves and a thirteen in 2012 (deadline is July 22, 2012)

215 by dec 1st, 2010
205 by dec 1st, 2011
195 by july 22, 2012 (the deadline)

exploring 5.13s in at least five locations including, but not limited to, NRG, RRG, Hinckley, Boulder Canyon, Joshua Tree, Garden of the Gods to find "the" face climb.

You are free to hold me to this goal, and remind me of this goal.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Fingerboard WOD

Good for you, JT. Your climbing has improved drastically recently. You have my full support.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Wednesday 5-25-2010

Rest day!

(Worked late then came home and did my yard work. Cut, trimmed, edged, raked, swept, pulled weeds, fixed the neighbors lawn mower. Rest day?)

I'm behind you all the way JT. As a matter of fact, I'll be right beside you trying to redpoint my own 5.13.

Re: The Shed 'O Pain
 

Tuesday May 25, 2010

Three rounds of:

15 pull ups, 10 dips, 10 power cleans 135#, 200m jog

How does this help climb a 5.13?
The pull ups are useful for upward motion with hands overhead.
The dips are useful for mantling and palms down movement.
The power cleans are useful for explosive power, but aren't so heavy as to yield bulky muscles.
The jogging is useful for cardio and weight control.

On the nutrition front, I finally managed to break the sugar binge. It was ugly. Am returning to Paleo. Paleo will help climb a 5.13 by lowering weight, which should have an advantageous effect on strength to weight ratio.

Also spent some time researching 5.11s, 5.12s, and 5.13s in different regions. Am looking for climbs that resemble Insistent Irony, A Little Help From My Friends, the bottom of St. Pauli Gil. Instead of focusing on overhaning upper body stuff, am going to experiment with vertical to less than vertical (e.g., slabby) routes that use little steps and balance and thus rely on the feet and calves more. Maybe "the" 5.13 will be on the gritstone in England or on the sandpaper of Vedawoo or Joshua Tree. Am looking for the best possible friction for my feet.