Should I make of buy rack safety pins?

[Clinton Canaday]

First, it should be "make *or* buy". Now then...

I'm looking for advice on how to overcome my lack of safety pins for my newly acquired half-rack (Atlantis C-210). It was such a good deal ($500 in barely used condition) that I was willing to overlook the missing safety pins. Now, after having researched the cost of acquiring a pair ($375 from Atlantis) and finding them nowhere else for cheaper, I am looking into making some myself or buying a cheap alternative. I have some ideas, but need some advice...

1) I try to replicate them...Measure the supports, buy steel rod and tubing (plastic to cover the bar-contact surface and metal to join dual rods), and cut and weld as necessary. This is certainly the cheap way to go and I have access to all of the fabrication equipment. This is also the more satisfying approach because I can design the pins how I want. Any design tips, like alloy, cross-sectional features, etc. would be appreciated.

2) I look for cheaper alternatives...I'm wondering whether other brands of racks have pins with similar, if not identical, dimensions. If that's the case, then I can probably look for those from other models from local dealers/gyms. This approach is definitely easier, but less fun .

...I have a feeling that most will recommend (2) before diving into (1), but I would like to learn from others' experiences or intuitions.

Thanks.

[Robert Britt Freund]

Originally Posted by Clinton Canaday

First, it should be "make *or* buy". Now then...

I'm looking for advice on how to overcome my lack of safety pins for my newly acquired half-rack (Atlantis C-210). It was such a good deal ($500 in barely used condition) that I was willing to overlook the missing safety pins. Now, after having researched the cost of acquiring a pair ($375 from Atlantis) and finding them nowhere else for cheaper, I am looking into making some myself or buying a cheap alternative. I have some ideas, but need some advice...

1) I try to replicate them...Measure the supports, buy steel rod and tubing (plastic to cover the bar-contact surface and metal to join dual rods), and cut and weld as necessary. This is certainly the cheap way to go and I have access to all of the fabrication equipment. This is also the more satisfying approach because I can design the pins how I want. Any design tips, like alloy, cross-sectional features, etc. would be appreciated.

2) I look for cheaper alternatives...I'm wondering whether other brands of racks have pins with similar, if not identical, dimensions. If that's the case, then I can probably look for those from other models from local dealers/gyms. This approach is definitely easier, but less fun .

...I have a feeling that most will recommend (2) before diving into (1), but I would like to learn from others' experiences or intuitions.

Thanks.

Clinton,

Charging $375 for the safety pins is a total rip-off!!! Atlantis should be ashamed of themselves.

I had custom safeties made for my Samson rack. The rack came with very heavy-duty internal safeties, but I also wanted to have some external cantilevered safeties for lifts outside the rack. These are MONSTERS (weigh about 70 lbs each) and Samson only charged me $106 for the pair.

I also wanted some rod style safeties (you know, the old school kind where it is just a rod with a handle on the front and a snap ring on the back to keep it in place) and Samson only charged me $35 for the pair.

Find a local welder, purchase some bar stock that is just under the size of your rack holes, and have him make a pair of "rod style safeties" like the pictures I have attached.

Hope this helps,
brittf

[Clinton Canaday]

Originally Posted by Robert Britt Freund

Clinton,

Charging $375 for the safety pins is a total rip-off!!! Atlantis should be ashamed of themselves.

I had custom safeties made for my Samson rack. The rack came with very heavy-duty internal safeties, but I also wanted to have some external cantilevered safeties for lifts outside the rack. These are MONSTERS (weigh about 70 lbs each) and Samson only charged me $106 for the pair.

I also wanted some rod style safeties (you know, the old school kind where it is just a rod with a handle on the front and a snap ring on the back to keep it in place) and Samson only charged me $35 for the pair.

Find a local welder, purchase some bar stock that is just under the size of your rack holes, and have him make a pair of "rod style safeties" like the pictures I have attached.

Hope this helps,
brittf

I'm jealous. Yours has through-holes, whereas mine has slots with 8-9mm engagement on either end (like every other squat rack that I've used). It shouldn't create any problems, i.e. bouncing or slipping out, if the rods are the right length and diameter, but can you foresee anything that I can't?

So, as it stands, it sounds like a 1-in diameter rod that engages the slots as much as possible is what I will end up doing. I can easily find steel bar stock that size and length for cheap. No welding necessary since handles aren't necessary. Just measure, cut, and grind to finish.

Thanks for the advice.

[Robert Britt Freund]

Originally Posted by Clinton Canaday

I'm jealous. Yours has through-holes, whereas mine has slots with 8-9mm engagement on either end (like every other squat rack that I've used). It shouldn't create any problems, i.e. bouncing or slipping out, if the rods are the right length and diameter, but can you foresee anything that I can't?

So, as it stands, it sounds like a 1-in diameter rod that engages the slots as much as possible is what I will end up doing. I can easily find steel bar stock that size and length for cheap. No welding necessary since handles aren't necessary. Just measure, cut, and grind to finish.

Thanks for the advice.

Hi Clinton,

I am a bit confused. I went to the Atlantis link you provided before I replied. It "seems" to show a half-rack with through-holes. (I am looking at the blow-up picture right now).

Well, in any event, slots CAN work, but they can't handle any upwards pressure. I would also suggest putting something on both ends of the bar so that it can't accidentally slide forward or backward and fall out of the slot. You could probably get by with drilling a hole on each end and putting a snap-ring cotter pin through the hole.

Good luck,
brittf

[Clinton Canaday]

Originally Posted by Robert Britt Freund

Hi Clinton,

I am a bit confused. I went to the Atlantis link you provided before I replied. It "seems" to show a half-rack with through-holes. (I am looking at the blow-up picture right now).

Well, in any event, slots CAN work, but they can't handle any upwards pressure. I would also suggest putting something on both ends of the bar so that it can't accidentally slide forward or backward and fall out of the slot. You could probably get by with drilling a hole on each end and putting a snap-ring cotter pin through the hole.

Good luck,
brittf

Yeah, I was actually about to edit my last post to mention that because I went back and looked at the picture and saw what you saw. It is the same "model", as in C-210, according to the Atlantis rep that I spoke with, but it is older than that in the picture. The rack that I have does NOT have through-holes, whereas the one in the picture looks like it does. I would post a picture like you did but I'm not at home.

I am not worried about upward pressure (at the moment...should I be?). I don't see how the cotter pins (like that in your picture) would help because the safety pins are entirely inside the supports. I am thinking that I could form some U-shaped grips, weld one tip to the safety pins, and have the other tip wrap around the support. That should keep the safety pins from sliding, but not bouncing (unless the grips were snug against the supports, such as with an inner rubber lining or something).

...I'm tempted to remove the slot structure and drill through holes in the supports, but it probably wasn't designed for that (removing half of the support cross-section with holes).

[Robert Britt Freund]

Originally Posted by Clinton Canaday

Yeah, I was actually about to edit my last post to mention that because I went back and looked at the picture and saw what you saw. It is the same "model", as in C-210, according to the Atlantis rep that I spoke with, but it is older than that in the picture. The rack that I have does NOT have through-holes, whereas the one in the picture looks like it does. I would post a picture like you did but I'm not at home.

I am not worried about upward pressure (at the moment...should I be?). I don't see how the cotter pins (like that in your picture) would help because the safety pins are entirely inside the supports. I am thinking that I could form some U-shaped grips, weld one tip to the safety pins, and have the other tip wrap around the support. That should keep the safety pins from sliding, but not bouncing (unless the grips were snug against the supports, such as with an inner rubber lining or something).

...I'm tempted to remove the slot structure and drill through holes in the supports, but it probably wasn't designed for that (removing half of the support cross-section with holes).

Hmmm... Not sure I understand without some pictures.

In general, be cautious about drilling holes in structural members, especially in something like a rack.

Regards,
brittf

[Clinton Canaday]

Originally Posted by Robert Britt Freund

Hmmm... Not sure I understand without some pictures.

In general, be cautious about drilling holes in structural members, especially in something like a rack.

Regards,
brittf

I'll take some pictures when I get home. Thanks for the help so far.

[Louis H. Poulin II]

Originally Posted by Robert Britt Freund

Hmmm... Not sure I understand without some pictures.

In general, be cautious about drilling holes in structural members, especially in something like a rack.

Regards,
brittf

I disagree with this. If you want to sink a couple 13/16" or 1-1/16" holes for 3/4" or 1" rod you will be fine. It's ego that makes us want our racks to be built so strong, unless it's for commercial use. Trust me, I'm a welder.

[Louis H. Poulin II]

Originally Posted by Clinton Canaday

Yeah, I was actually about to edit my last post to mention that because I went back and looked at the picture and saw what you saw. It is the same "model", as in C-210, according to the Atlantis rep that I spoke with, but it is older than that in the picture. The rack that I have does NOT have through-holes, whereas the one in the picture looks like it does. I would post a picture like you did but I'm not at home.

I am not worried about upward pressure (at the moment...should I be?). I don't see how the cotter pins (like that in your picture) would help because the safety pins are entirely inside the supports. I am thinking that I could form some U-shaped grips, weld one tip to the safety pins, and have the other tip wrap around the support. That should keep the safety pins from sliding, but not bouncing (unless the grips were snug against the supports, such as with an inner rubber lining or something).

...I'm tempted to remove the slot structure and drill through holes in the supports, but it probably wasn't designed for that (removing half of the support cross-section with holes).

If you indeed have slots than it will be much more difficult to fabricate. What I'd suggest you do is decide where you want your holes to be and drill them on the SIDE to fit a 3/4" pin. Then have a rod made with a vertically welded channel on each end with 3/4" stud welded to it. You probably only need 3 or 4 different settings. And if you get too worked up about too many holes in your rack, which I assure you won't be a problem, simply add a 1/8" peice of flat stock to each area the holes are over the existing slots to gusset.

[Robert Britt Freund]

Originally Posted by Louis H. Poulin II

I disagree with this. If you want to sink a couple 13/16" or 1-1/16" holes for 3/4" or 1" rod you will be fine. It's ego that makes us want our racks to be built so strong, unless it's for commercial use. Trust me, I'm a welder.

Louis might well be right - kind of like guys who jack their truck up with huge lift kits and tires down here in Texas. You know what they say...

There are structural reasons to be careful, however. A hole is a stress-riser, so depending on the load and impact and material, there can be SOME risk.

Plus, that is a heck of a lot of holes to drill.

I think you would be better off figuring out a way to use the existing slots. Some kind of bar with appropriate welding sure seems the way to go.

Post some pictures or drawings and I will bet that people can come up with useful ideas for you...

Regards,
brittf