Slam ball

Mike Burgener · 02-25-2006, 09:50 AM

pierre auge from canada has put out a pdf file on how to make a slam ball cheaply. go to www.mikesgym.org and then to the articles for a copy of this file. pierre is a wealth of knowledge and loves to share his passion!! these are easy to make and affordable.

Manuel Ruiz · 02-25-2006, 10:41 AM

I am looking to buy a D-ball but do not know which one to get. It looks like the best weight to get is a 20#'er for my crossfit WO. But which one as far as color(bounce, non-bounce), and size (10.6" or 9"). I couldn't find those details in the forum. Any guidance appreciated.

Eugene R. Allen · 02-25-2006, 12:23 PM

Get the yellow balls and the 9" one. You may find the 25 pounder is a better bet, 20 is a bit light. I have 15, 25 and 35 and 25 seems to get the most use followed very closely by the 35.

They do break. There is a weak spot at the end where the plug is. I have broken two of them and they are not fixable. I think one of the best ways to make the ball last is to make sure you slam it with the plug side up. The other trick would be to make some sort of cushioned surface to slam the ball to. The balls are expensive so whatever you can do to make them last you should do. I managed in my garage gym with only aboug 5 clients involved in slamming that weight of ball to destroy two of them in less than a year.

Eugene R. Allen · 02-26-2006, 09:51 PM

Some tips for ball making. I went and bought a $10 and a $20 basket ball and a $30 10 pound thick rubber medicine ball with nothing inside. I will fill each of these and tell you what works best.

Buy silica sand a tan/white color. Not grey playground sand. The silica sand stays dry and pours through the funnel easier.

I punched a second hole in the ball for a vent and shoved a pipe shaped presta valve stem adapter to get more air. I used a screw top cap with a pointy top for squirting stuff and angle cut the top. I shoved a pencil in it to make a point out the end and shoved it into the other hole in the ball. Get your shop vac or other vacuum hose and hold it near but not all the way over the presta valve pipe vent. If you cover it all it will collapse the ball. As you pour in the sand the vacuum will pull it into the ball pretty quickly. Much faster than waiting for gravity.

Matthew Nielsen · 02-27-2006, 08:30 AM

I thought D-balls came with a lifetime warrenty? Is there a no slam ball rule in the warrenty?

Eugene R. Allen · 02-27-2006, 03:53 PM

The lifetime warranty doesn't cover the thing that breaks. No, I'm not kidding. Dennis sent me the warranty description and the crack that happens near the fill plug is a known problem and occurs near 10,000 slams. I can assure you that I have no where near that many slams on my 35 and 25 pound balls that have developed cracks near the plug. The warranty is for failures other than the one near the plug.

The warranty you can buy is for the life of the ball and is 25% of the cost of the ball where you can buy a new one for 25% of the cost if any failure occurs.

John Velandra · 02-27-2006, 04:41 PM

Since that's the case.... would you buy another one or make your own??

Eugene R. Allen · 02-27-2006, 06:47 PM

I really like the D-balls and will buy more. But, to hedge my bets I am going to make a variety of them as I mentioned a couple posts up and see which lasts the longest. Kind of a pain to make them even with the vacuum cleaner trick. I will replace my 35 pounder for sure as I am doubtful that I can get a basketball to weigh 35 pounds. From now on I am going to avoid slamming the ball onto the cork and I will consider some sort of cushioned surface.

Pierre Auge · 02-28-2006, 04:51 PM

Eugene I agree with the silica sand, its the best choice for making the balls. But as far as the second hole I was given a much better idea by a fellow crossfitter "lindsey laine". Simply put a handpump needle in the needle hole in order to allow air flow. This will obviously allow less airflow into the ball as opposed to other methods but I assure it does work in fact i just tried it!

Mike Burgener · 03-01-2006, 10:03 AM

pierre's slam balls are legit....good balls. pierre are you saying now that you would not put the other hole in the ball? also what do you think is the heaviest ball you can make using your style? coach b

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02-25-2006, 09:50 AM	#1
Mike Burgener Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: bonsall ca Posts: 627	pierre auge from canada has put out a pdf file on how to make a slam ball cheaply. go to www.mikesgym.org and then to the articles for a copy of this file. pierre is a wealth of knowledge and loves to share his passion!! these are easy to make and affordable.

02-25-2006, 10:41 AM	#2
Manuel Ruiz Member Profile: Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Lathrop CA Posts: 20	I am looking to buy a D-ball but do not know which one to get. It looks like the best weight to get is a 20#'er for my crossfit WO. But which one as far as color(bounce, non-bounce), and size (10.6" or 9"). I couldn't find those details in the forum. Any guidance appreciated.

02-25-2006, 12:23 PM	#3
Eugene R. Allen Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 1,713	Get the yellow balls and the 9" one. You may find the 25 pounder is a better bet, 20 is a bit light. I have 15, 25 and 35 and 25 seems to get the most use followed very closely by the 35. They do break. There is a weak spot at the end where the plug is. I have broken two of them and they are not fixable. I think one of the best ways to make the ball last is to make sure you slam it with the plug side up. The other trick would be to make some sort of cushioned surface to slam the ball to. The balls are expensive so whatever you can do to make them last you should do. I managed in my garage gym with only aboug 5 clients involved in slamming that weight of ball to destroy two of them in less than a year.

02-26-2006, 09:51 PM	#4
Eugene R. Allen Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 1,713	Some tips for ball making. I went and bought a $10 and a $20 basket ball and a $30 10 pound thick rubber medicine ball with nothing inside. I will fill each of these and tell you what works best. Buy silica sand a tan/white color. Not grey playground sand. The silica sand stays dry and pours through the funnel easier. I punched a second hole in the ball for a vent and shoved a pipe shaped presta valve stem adapter to get more air. I used a screw top cap with a pointy top for squirting stuff and angle cut the top. I shoved a pencil in it to make a point out the end and shoved it into the other hole in the ball. Get your shop vac or other vacuum hose and hold it near but not all the way over the presta valve pipe vent. If you cover it all it will collapse the ball. As you pour in the sand the vacuum will pull it into the ball pretty quickly. Much faster than waiting for gravity.

02-27-2006, 08:30 AM	#5
Matthew Nielsen Member Profile: Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Herndon VA Posts: 602	I thought D-balls came with a lifetime warrenty? Is there a no slam ball rule in the warrenty?

02-27-2006, 03:53 PM	#6
Eugene R. Allen Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 1,713	The lifetime warranty doesn't cover the thing that breaks. No, I'm not kidding. Dennis sent me the warranty description and the crack that happens near the fill plug is a known problem and occurs near 10,000 slams. I can assure you that I have no where near that many slams on my 35 and 25 pound balls that have developed cracks near the plug. The warranty is for failures other than the one near the plug. The warranty you can buy is for the life of the ball and is 25% of the cost of the ball where you can buy a new one for 25% of the cost if any failure occurs.

02-27-2006, 04:41 PM	#7
John Velandra Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 701	Since that's the case.... would you buy another one or make your own??

02-27-2006, 06:47 PM	#8
Eugene R. Allen Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 1,713	I really like the D-balls and will buy more. But, to hedge my bets I am going to make a variety of them as I mentioned a couple posts up and see which lasts the longest. Kind of a pain to make them even with the vacuum cleaner trick. I will replace my 35 pounder for sure as I am doubtful that I can get a basketball to weigh 35 pounds. From now on I am going to avoid slamming the ball onto the cork and I will consider some sort of cushioned surface.

02-28-2006, 04:51 PM	#9
Pierre Auge Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Ottawa Ontario Posts: 735	Eugene I agree with the silica sand, its the best choice for making the balls. But as far as the second hole I was given a much better idea by a fellow crossfitter "lindsey laine". Simply put a handpump needle in the needle hole in order to allow air flow. This will obviously allow less airflow into the ball as opposed to other methods but I assure it does work in fact i just tried it!

03-01-2006, 10:03 AM	#10
Mike Burgener Affiliate Profile: Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: bonsall ca Posts: 627	pierre's slam balls are legit....good balls. pierre are you saying now that you would not put the other hole in the ball? also what do you think is the heaviest ball you can make using your style? coach b