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Kawika Bennett 06-25-2006 04:51 PM

anyone use it and your results? this would be done on a campus board, for a non climber, solely for conditioning.


also tips would be great.

how does it compare to kipping pull ups? in increasing total reps and power development?

Brad Williams 06-26-2006 06:30 AM

Campus work is great for building power and fore arm strength. I am not sure how it compares to kipping pull ups. I do know that since starting CF and doing lots of kipping that my campussing has improved.
Use caution when beginning. It is very easy to cause overuse injuries with this type of work, especially if you are not curently climbing. When most people start campussing they have probably been climbing for some time already and have already developed some specific strength that is neccessary for the crimping and landing of small holds.
I would start with big holds and ease into it by keeping your workouts short in the beginning.

But yeah, it is a great method of training for power.

Andrew Nashel 06-26-2006 05:45 PM

I joined just to respond to this post!

I would strongly recommend [b]against[/b] using a campus board without a very solid climbing background. They are designed to significantly work finger strength and are not at all suitable without quite a bit of preparation. I often hear recommendations that you should be climbing 5.10 or .11 or even higher before bothering wit a campus board.

If you want to develop basic finger strength, just take up climbing -- it's great! For fitness and power, rope climbing, bachar ladders, pullups, etc. are all better tools.

Mike Yukish 06-26-2006 06:41 PM

[i]I would strongly recommend against using a campus board without a very solid climbing background. They are designed to significantly work finger strength and are not at all suitable without quite a bit of preparation.[/i]

So what would you say about using jugs, so the campusing is an upper body workout rather than a finger workout?

Andrew Nashel 06-26-2006 07:58 PM

Jugs are fine I guess. As usual, ease into it, as even climbing on jugs can tweak tendons. Steep bouldering is great for working on core tension, and can be very gymnastic, but you don't really want to jump into it without some time on the easier stuff. Again, you might as well just start climbing in general!

I offer these warnings are someone who has blown a finger pulley and built a campus board in my kitchen.

Edit: Rereading exactly what you were asking, Mike, I would still be wary of campusing even to big holds. Absorbing the shock of dynamic work is much harder on tendons than kipping pullups. Also think about doing lockoff work with a bar and just doing pullups using a hangboard.

(Message edited by andrewn on June 26, 2006)

Matt Stanley 06-26-2006 09:02 PM


I think you've gotten great advice so far. I've done a fair amount of campusing (almost exclusively on pretty big holds) and have gotten good results with it. It's a great way to build power and it's easy to stay challenged by trying to skip ever more rungs.

All that said, there are a number of downsides--not the least of which is finding a good campus board. The main thing is that it's REALLY easy to overdo it--especially if you haven't been climbing much. If you do find a campus board you can use, build up slowly. It's easy to wreck a finger or elbow and put yourself on the shelf for a month if you aren't prudent.

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