View Full Version : Help with pullup bar

William Goldsmith
05-20-2007, 09:44 AM
Hello to all. I apologize in advance for the very long post. But, I would appreciate any help or insight regarding my situation.

My wife and I just moved into our first house. I recently installed a pullup bar in my basement using the speed-rail fittings and some galvanized steel pipe (schedule 80). Its a great pullup bar. The problem is that we have exposed fiberglass between the joists in the ceiling of the basement and I am concerned about working out down there and inhaling any of the fibers. My first question regards the fiberglass, should I be concerned about it? What would you recommend I do if it is a problem?

I also have a one-car garage. I need to use it as a garage for my car but there is room to have equipment on the sides and use it when the car is not in the garage. I should mention that I live in MA, so we do have four seasons. I was thinking about adding a pullup bar in my garage placing it in the corner using 45 degree speed-rail fittings with Schedule 80 galavanized steel pipe. But, I am concerned about the studs being able to support the pullup bar and my weight when doing the pullups. I weigh 160 lbs. My thought was to use 2x4s or 2x6s and attach them to two studs then attach the speed rail fitting in the middle of the 2x4s or 2x6s on each side of the garage corner so that two studs could support the weight on each side of the bar. My questions are as follows:

1. Are two studs sufficient or should I use a longer piece of wood to distribute the weight over three or four studs on each side?

2. What length lag bolts should I use (I was thinking 2 1/2")? I would use two into each stud.

3. Would you use 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s?

Thank you in advance for your help?


Stuart Smith
05-20-2007, 02:33 PM
I'm not a tradie or very experienced with building, but with the fibreglass, could you do something as simple as painting it? I imagine that would do a pretty good job of keeping it all together. Just a thought.

Dennis Barrett
05-20-2007, 04:44 PM
William, Are you looking at the craft paper backing of the insulation? If so, it shouldn't be a problem. When you dust a piece of furniture, look closely for bits of insulation. If you are looking at the open side of the insulation, you might shake some loose, especially when you start rattling the rafters!
The simplest solution is a couple of rolls of visqueen, a staple gun and a couple of buds to help hold it straight while you staple.

Dennis B.

William Goldsmith
05-20-2007, 06:33 PM

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is Visqueen? If it is a plastic wrap, there is a vapor barrier on the side of the insulation facing the ceiling. The bottom side is open (just the insulation facing down). My concern is that there would be a problem creating a double vapor barrier. Should this be a concern?



Dennis Barrett
05-21-2007, 06:29 AM
William, visqueen is plastic sheeting.
Insulation is installed with the vapor barrier facing the heated space (interior). This is meant to keep any condensation from the meeting of warm and cold air from matting down the insulation. An outside wall is covered with sheathing and siding,a vapor barrier to the weather, with no ill effects to the insulation.
In the attic and the floor joists in the basement the insulation is left exposed because it doesn't need to be protected from the weather. Adding plastic sheeting is not going to cause a problem.

Dennis B.

William Goldsmith
05-24-2007, 04:39 PM
Regarding the pullup bar in the corner of my garage, would using 2x6's spread across two studs be sufficient or should I spread them across three or four studs or is this overkill?

It was also recommended by someone that I put an extra piece of wood behind the 2x6 where it attaches to each stud so that I could put a washer and nut on the back side of the 2x6 (to secure the speed-rail flange to the 2x6)to really lock in the lag bolt as opposed to just having it screwed into the 2x6 alone. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.