View Full Version : Mounting Rings and Pullup Bar Mounting Advice
01-22-2007, 07:35 PM
It is great to have others that have done this before.
I am trying to start to set up a basement gym. Thought it would be best to locate the pullup bar and rings first due to structural implications and to create a suitable area for kipping and various ring exercises that I am looking forward to learning. Ceiling height is around 8' 4" to bottom of the 3 1/2" wide x 16" tall wood trusses that are 24" on center leaving 20 1/2" clear opening between the trusses (see picture below).
The desire is to construct a "Home Depot" pipe pullup bar with an additional pipe bar to hang the rings similar to other pictures and instructions I found searching the discussions. At first I figured I would attach a 2x8 or similar board perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses to mount the pipe flanges and therefore run the pipe also perpendicular to the trusses. Although I haven't changed my mind on the pullup bar section, as I have read and re-read the earlier discussions I am thinking I should try to figure out a way to hang the ring section parallel and in between the trusses so that that the suspension point is higher than 8' to 8' 4".
(Message edited by tlayman on January 22, 2007)
01-22-2007, 07:55 PM
I just put up my pull up bars last week and got my rings up about two weeks ago. I will take some pictures and put them up, but here's what I basically did.
1 2" x 6" x 4'
6 3/8" x 4-1/2" lag bolts
2 3/8"x 3" eye bolts
I cut the 2x6 down to about 3 1/2 - 4 feet
then drilled 3 pilot holes on each end of the 2 x 6 and through the ceiling joists. I also drilled two pilot holes for the eye-bolts, I used gorrilla glue and screwed in the eye-bolts before I attached the 2x6 to the ceiling. Then I used the gorilla glue and bolted the 2x6 to the joists. I'm 250-ish pounds and haven't had a problem with anything. I've even hung off them and swung (sp?) back and forth and there's nothing going on up there.
I did the same thing with the pull up bar as far as mounting except I used 9 lag bolts, 3 rows of three. I used 1in pipe that you can get from lowes/home depot
parts for pull up
1 6ft 1" pipe (I used the black pipe it was cheaper)
2 1" floor flanges
2 1" 90 degree elbows
2 1" 12" long pipe
9 lag bolts (same as rings)
8 1/4" x 2 1/2" screws
I put all the pipe together marked the 2x6 for the flanges and joists, drilled the pilot holes and then anchored the 2x6 to the cieling. Then I attached the pull up bar.
I'll try and get those pictures up in a day or two. Hope this helps.
sorry about the disjointed information style, it's how I work
01-22-2007, 08:11 PM
I mounted my rings the way you are suggesting. I put eye bolts through the trusses at the very top of the truss/rafter. This gave a longer run on the webbing and probably more "play" in the movement of the rings. I put the eyes on the outside of the truss in order to get the 50cm spacing. Also, as long as I'm relatively in line while using the rings, banging my head is less likely.
As an aside, my pullup bar is actually the cross member of my cage, all I did was to make sure that the middle of the bar was lined up between the rafters, that way when I get my head above, it just goes between the rafters. After literally thousands of pullups over the past 10 months, I'm glad to say there have been no collisons! David
01-23-2007, 04:24 PM
Travis and David,
Thanks for the help. I am going to try to get to Lowes or Home Depot tonight.
David - What spacing are your trusses/rafters - 16" on center? According to a calculator I just used 50 cm works out to about 19 2/3". Does this sound correct? So you mounted on the outside of your 16" on center joists to give you a few extra inches.
Since I have 20 1/2" clear on the inside I am wondering if I should mount the eye bolts in the center of the space with the axis of the bolts parallel to the trusses or mount them similar to David but have eye bolts attached just on the inside of each truss so the axis of the eyebolts are perpendicular to the trusses. It seems that if the axis is parallel to the trusses in the center of the trusses this would give the webbing of the rings more "play". Either way will provide more height if I mount to top chord of truss in lieu of bottom chord. Don't know if I want to try to do a muscle up in between trusses. May just need to modify so that my head doesn't hit the trusses. Are there any other exercises I am going to want to perform where I might occupy the spaces between the trusses?
(Message edited by tlayman on January 23, 2007)
01-24-2007, 09:26 PM
if it works within your final plan, i suggest the following:
1. no matter what, stick to your plan of perpendicular to the trusses. this is good for more reasons than most realize, particularly once you start kipping,
2. mount the bar not to the trusses, but to a 2x6 that's mounted to the trusses, this way, your bar has no breaks along it's length, but is braced the whole way across,
3. screw through the board into each truss twice (if you use a 2x6, then about 1.5-2 inches from the side). this will keep it more solid, particularly when kipping
4. washers are your friend. not because you care about the cosmetics of your trusses, but because they will help distribute the load across an area greater than the head of the lag bolt.
i did all these, and mine holds a minimum of 400 pounds even waking up.
good luck man. we wanna see pics when you're done.
01-25-2007, 01:56 PM
Here's the pictures to the pull-up bar and rings that I put up.
01-25-2007, 09:00 PM
Mike Donelly sent me a message via e-mail..."Travis:
Thanks for you post on the home gym.
I see you used a flange, 12" nipple, and 90 degree elbow to hang your pullup
bar. What is the clearance from the top of the bar to the bottom of the 2X6.
I am mounting my own bar this weekend and don't know if I should use the 10" or
12" nipple. It depends on how much additional distance the flange and the elbow
Mike Donnelly "
Mike, I don't have your e-mail address so here's the answer. There's a little less than 13 inches between the 2x6 and the to of the bar. Personally I think the 10" nipple would be a little too short. the 12" is perfect.
01-26-2007, 08:17 PM
Thanks for the post. Being 6'2" and having an 8' ceiling, I want to maximize height where possible. Given that the hardware increases the distance a few inches, I may mount a smaller 2X6 above either flange (instead of a single piece), saving the 2" for headroom there and giving it right back by using 10" nipples. When space is so tight, every inch or two counts. Thanks for the advice, will post pictures when complete.
01-26-2007, 08:46 PM
My joists are 16" on center. I mounted the eye bolts on the outside of each joist, using double nuts choked up on the eye bolt, I was able to get the recc'd spacing. Then just washers on either side and another nut to on the inside to keep it tight. This has worked very well for me, no issues to date. David
01-28-2007, 05:41 AM
Given the above discussion, have you considered splitting your perpendicular 2x6 so you have a gap between two floor trusses? I would still run it to attach to 3 trusses in each direction (if you have a gap that will support that. If you are comfortable bringing your head into that 20"x16" space, this will save you on several counts.
1. You can use shorter vertical supports on your pipe setup, decreasing the flex that somes with this type of pull-up bar. As the drops get further away from the mounting point, the bar flex increases, especially during a violent kip.
2. You have that space; as a tall guy with a (relatively) short ceiling, you are going to want every inch you can get. You may find that you have to do overhead lifts in a certian spot that allows the plates to make it between the trusses as well.
3. Consider using nuts, bolts, and washers vice lag bolts to attach your 2x6 or 2x8. This way you are not relying on the threads in the wood to support the load. Floor trusses give better mounting options than standard floor joists (2x8 standing on end). Take advantage of that.
02-04-2007, 07:18 PM
Great ideas. I have been trying to get this pullup bar done but I am glad I haven't because I would have missed applying some of these ideas.
Finally got some pipe from Lowes. Wondering how far the pipe should screw down into the fittings. Not sure the store cut/threaded ends work as good as the factory threaded ends.
02-04-2007, 07:27 PM
As long as you can get 3-4 threads to join you should be good. I also use a tape that for some reason the name escapes me at the moment. really thin, not sticky, run it around the threads and screw everything together. I haven't had any problems with mine yet.
I don't want to cut the sheet rock to get between my truses like that. I've got plenty of space as I've got my setup. My legs are usually bent anyway so I don't really notice the height. It's also perfect for jumping pull-ups. I just lay down a 45# bumper and go to town.
Brendan C. Cook
02-05-2007, 09:13 AM
Are you talking about Teflon tape on the threads? Anyone using locktite? I'm still in the debating/planning/talking myself into/out of phase about mounting a bar on the wall or ceiling, so any/all specific info about the details (as in, all of the above) is REALLY helpful!!:biggrinthumb:
02-06-2007, 07:24 PM
In the picture you posted it looks like you put 2 short sections of larger diameter pipe on your bar. Am I correct? If so, what size?
02-06-2007, 07:33 PM
Ya, Teflon, that's the stuff. I was going to use locktite but I wanted to be able to take it apart when I move. not that you would have to use it on each joint. the two white pipes on my pull-up bar are 1.25 in pvc about 6 inches long. I figured a freely rotating, larger diameter bar would really suck so I just slipped some extra pieces of pvc I had onto the pull up bar. I can slide them out of the way when I don't use them. They really raise the suck level when you try to do kipping pull ups on them. I had the pvc from my set of paralletts that I made. And for anyone's reference, if you're heavy like me (245#) use the 1.5 in pvc. the 1.25 is just a little wobbly on me. It'll hold but doesn't promote confidence.
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